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Indiaās Rich Craftsmanship Faces a Global Identity Crisis
In a world where fashion trends travel at lightning speed across borders, the lines between inspiration and imitation often blur. But when that inspiration starts to look like cultural appropriationāwithout creditāit stings deep. That’s precisely what happened when global luxury brand Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection. Among the new releases was a pair of open-toe, braided leather sandals, eerily similar to Indiaās traditional Kolhapuri chappalsāsold not for ā¹400 but for over ā¹1 lakh.
This design sparked a fiery online debate, led by none other than Radhika Gupta, CEO of Edelweiss Mutual Fund. She accused Prada of “cultural theft” for commercializing a deeply rooted Indian tradition without acknowledgment. Her sharp critique, which she posted on X (formerly Twitter), quickly gained traction among those advocating for Indiaās rich textile and artisan legacy.
Guptaās post called out the stark contrast: mass-produced designer sandals inspired by handcrafted Kolhapuris, sold at luxury prices without crediting the original artisans. āThis is why I am obsessed with wearing and talking about handlooms,ā she wrote, lamenting the lack of mainstream recognition for local crafts like Himroo, Sambalpuri, and Narayanpet. Her statement, āTill the lion learns to write, all stories will always glorify the hunter,ā became a rallying cry for those demanding justice and recognition for Indian craftsmanship.
Joining the chorus was industrialist Harsh Goenka, who condemned
The backlash led to some actionāPrada has reportedly scheduled a virtual meeting with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture (MACCIA) on July 11. The goal? To explore collaborations, potential co-branded collections, and even skill development programs that might benefit Indian artisans.
What Undercode Say:
The Prada-Kolhapuri controversy is not just a one-off scandalāitās a mirror to a much deeper, ongoing issue. The commodification of indigenous art without proper acknowledgment or compensation is an ugly truth lurking behind the glamor of global fashion. While Prada may not be the first or last to do this, itās moments like these that shed light on the enormous gap between creative inspiration and ethical responsibility.
Indiaās handmade industry is a sleeping giant. With over 7 million artisans involved in traditional crafts, it holds not just cultural significance but massive untapped economic potential. Yet, global luxury brands often skim the cream off the top, borrowing designs rooted in centuries of tradition, then rebranding and reselling them for exorbitant prices. The real creatorsāthe artisansāremain invisible.
What makes this case particularly powerful is the voice behind the protest. When influential figures like Radhika Gupta and Harsh Goenka use their platforms to spotlight these issues, it becomes harder for corporations to hide behind artistic license. Their stance emphasizes a growing demand: global recognition for local artistry.
Pradaās scheduled meeting with MACCIA suggests a potential turning point. If handled sincerely, this could set a precedent for international brands to co-create with indigenous talent instead of appropriating their designs. But if the outcome is performativeāa token gesture to save faceāthe backlash could deepen.
There’s also a lesson here for Indian consumers and policymakers. Itās time to rethink our relationship with local crafts. Instead of aspiring to global luxury labels, thereās a need to elevate and rebrand our heritage crafts to the same stature. Himroo, Paithani, Kolhapuriāthese aren’t just artifacts; they’re luxury in their own right. The challenge is in the storytelling, branding, and most importantlyāownership.
Indiaās next luxury movement may not come from Milan or Parisāit could rise from the streets of Kolhapur, if only we allow it to.
š Fact Checker Results:
ā Kolhapuris are indeed a GI-tagged (Geographical Indication) footwear from Maharashtra and Karnataka.
ā Pradaās S/S 2026 sandals closely resemble traditional Kolhapuris.
ā A meeting with MACCIA is officially scheduled for July 11, according to multiple media sources.
š Prediction:
If the conversation gains further traction, expect a wave of similar scrutiny directed at other global brands using āinspiredā indigenous aesthetics. Pradaās responseāespecially the outcome of its meeting with MACCIAācould influence industry standards. There’s also a strong possibility that luxury houses will increasingly seek co-branding opportunities with Indian artisans, not out of goodwill alone but to avoid reputational damage.
The bigger prediction? Indian crafts could experience a renaissance momentāif the right policy, brand investment, and public sentiment align. The stage is set.
References:
Reported By: timesofindia.indiatimes.com
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